Dine al fresco and watch how the sunlight flits through the trees across the day; Photography by Syed Ali Husain

Waking up to birdsong

You’re never quite indoors at The Sen, the boutique luxury retreat by Nakul Sen and Shagun Khanna amidst Uttarakhand’s lush hills

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Growing up in Old Delhi, Nakul Sen’s haveli was surrounded by craft and culture. Artisans came and went, silver foil makers worked quietly in corners, and the act of creating was a part of everyday life. Perhaps that’s where it began — his instinct to create. From running a fashion boutique under his own name to working on film sets for Delhi-6 and Aks, and now hosting us at his tranquil boutique retreat hidden away in the hills of Lansdowne, Nakul’s journey feels like a natural continuum. The Sen, located near Kotdwar in Uttarakhand, eases you into an unhurried rhythm. The climb up the narrow, albeit slightly rickety, stairs becomes a transition. With every step, the mind clears, and the noise of the city fades away to a distance. This calm suffused my stay. I remember falling asleep watching the stars through the skylight of my room, and waking to birdsong and a soft wash of sunlight across a towering four-poster bed. Here, you are never quite indoors. The pine trees frame every moment, and the forest becomes part of your experience. From the glass walls that dissolve boundaries to the living spaces revealing themselves gradually, each decision at The Sen is by design. Invariably, it all began with a sketch. The property was discussed, debated and often argued over with his partner Shagun, whose expertise in retail lent clarity and structure. Without formal training in architecture, Nakul brought in a civil engineer to ground the ideas technically, but the soul of the space remains entirely his.

"The light shifts, the trees move gently, and time seems to slow just enough for you to notice it. You begin to realise that nothing more is needed"

At The Sen, tablescapes change with every meal; Photography by Syed Ali Husain

The landscape became the muse and the guiding light. Stone is sourced from the site itself. Metal and glass are used lightly, never overpowering the terrain. Nothing feels imposing. The structures follow the contours of the hill, trees remain untouched, and every suite opens out to a view that makes you pause. The common living space feels akin to an invitation to sit longer and just be. Then there are the details that stay with you. Vibrant rugs anchor the minimal interiors, awash with breezy neutrals and plush sofas equipped with throws for chillier evenings.

The Sen takes pride in its table settings, hand-knit covers for herb pots, candles made by the team, and each meal laid out with a different tablescapes, almost as if someone has set the table just for you. They offer village walks, picnics by the river, and even a treehouse if you want to feel closer to the clouds. Jim Corbett National Park is just a two-hour drive away, should you feel like venturing out. But for me, the real luxury at The Sen is in the simpler joys — sinking into a sofa or stretching out by the pool, and just looking out into nature. The light shifts, the trees move gently, and time seems to slow just enough for you to notice it. You begin to realise that nothing more is needed.

Read more: In Chennai, Rajiv Saini and Rahul Mehrotra craft a home that situates the self within nature’s fleeting ephemerality

The interiors are clad with stone sourced from the site. The material palette, of metal, glass and stone, recedes to let the landscape shine; Photography by Syed Ali Husain
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