The best reason to leave your table at Rocco awaits you further downstairs. Tropical animals and foliage cover the tiles around a sculpted stone basin, approached through a staircase lined with floral carpet, wallpaper and mirrors. It brings to mind Alice in Wonderland, particularly the strange changes of scale and setting that make an ordinary journey feel improbable. I’m in the basement washroom at The Ivens in Lisbon. While I could make a case just for the bathroom, all of The Ivens is like an illustrated storybook. At the entrance, pictures, specimens and animal references compete for attention among timber surfaces, mirrors and upholstered seating. The reception resembles a cabinet of curiosities, with enough detail to keep you occupied while someone locates my reservation. I notice a bird, then a botanical drawing, then something reflected ahead of where I stand.















