The big cats and adrenaline! How I found wellness in wilderness at Bori Safari Lodge, Madhya Pradesh

Massive, sharp droplets of rain almost gently pierce my skin. The heavy gush of wind threatens me off the edge of my seat in the open-safari jeep. With the headlight flash in front, I let the roaring engine guide us out. We were just a few kilometres from the wild forests of Satpura National Tiger Reserve — when our lakeside sundowner turned into an episode of escaping a rain storm. Of course, that mundane picture of the central state of Madhya Pradesh in my head by now had washed away. 

I now searched for leisure masked in adventures. Thus, I found it. In and around Bhopal, during my next few days on the regal turf of Jehan Numa Palace Hotel and their wildlife resort Bori Safari Lodge. This is when I let you in on how I found wellness in the wilderness. And why I promised myself to come back to Madhya Pradesh, yet again…

At home with tigers

About a three-hour drive away from Bhopal, Bori Safari Lodge quietly sits amidst the rustic-scapes of Dhapada Village. A perfect place for the ones seeking a meditative nature retreat with adrenaline-spiking safari itineraries to Satpura Tiger Reserve, less than an hour away from the lodge. Although one can’t surely predict a successful tiger spotting on safaris, at Satpura and its many zones, the chances are excitingly hopeful.

On day one, an evening safari was on the cards — when we spotted (some may call it a glimpse!) not one, but two wild cats inside the Mallupura zone. First, a leopard dashed past without advance warnings. Then, a massive tiger cub strutted through the rough kisses of the jungle bushes. Surprising? Not so much. Thrilling? So much. Every safari is accompanied by in-house naturalists who essentially are a well-informed encyclopaedia of all things wild along with a breakfast spread for breaks amidst the safari rides.

The next safari was critical. Starting as early as 4:30 AM the following day, the agenda was set. To spot more tigers, from close and from far. Satpura National Park being one of the largest tiger reserves in India, the morning started with spotting a resident tiger called Tarzan. As we moved further into the forest, a tigress named Heartface and a tiger called Shankara met us with their sweet, mingling moments. Which we watched with sheer patience and curiosity long enough than a YouTube documentary on wild cats.

Stay, meditate, repeat

Bori Safari Lodge envelopes 12 ensuite rooms, outdoor deck sit-outs, in-house dining spaces, a library, a plunge pool and a spa. Sprawling a grand 7.5 acre farmland estate, the bucolic imprints of the surrounding village are wittily entwined with all that a modern-day traveller seeks at the property. Full-scaling windows armed with strong daylight, wooden and cane furniture, cool grey concrete finish, traditional rugs on the floors (and wall), sleek lamps and steel water bottles that evidence the plastic-free code of the property.

No phone? Blow a horn!

The boundaries of the lodge and surroundings are a blur, for good reasons. Echoes of birds chirping and rolling green pastures look over to the skyline that floods the space with light in the day and reveals glimmering stars in the night. There are no phones in the rooms that connects you to the staff. Instead, every room has a blowhorn one must use to signal for assistance. As adventurous as it may sound, it takes a real, raw approach of living like the locals. 

Local meals and Mahua cocktails

For a wildlife resort, the meals at Bori are grand and equally fit for a modern traveller. Stationed as a multi-cuisine restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating areas, the set menus change everyday displaying a mix of regional recipes and options for vegans, too. The ingredients are sourced from local farmers and markets, ensuring a touch of seasonality on the table. 

Mahua (widely found in the plains and forests of central and north India) is a popular ingredient in Madhya Pradesh. Frequently used to make jams, extracts, wines and desserts. While on the safari, we spotted rows of Mahua trees, which eventually landed on our menu back at the lodge, too, in the form of Mahua cocktails crafted with gin, tequila, vodka, rum and so on. Just a slight sweet aftertaste and essentially heady, the lingering smack of Mahua pairs great with Indian curries and cheese.

The sundowner may have become a crash party (of sorts). But it did not stop us from getting back to the property that night, catching a wholesome meal and soldier on with our plans for the next day. Afterall, wellness is not just about taking a break but also about confidently wading through impromptu life situations and taking back stories to share for the ones who missed (the fun!)  

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