Black is the new black

Payal Khandwala and Studio Organon's all-black sartorial store

10 Sep 2024

The white, brick-clad facade of Payal Khandwala’s new store in Delhi stands tall, with lush trees peering indoors through glass windows. The vivid black that dresses the interiors is indeed tough to look away from. Shadow against light. Colour against darkness. The Chinese symbol of yin and yang immediately comes to mind. “I envisioned the black monochrome palette as a jewel box where the clothes are the jewels and everything else recedes,” Payal avers. Akin to gemstones, the imposing scale and stark interiors make space for her vivid ensembles to shine.

Payal’s clear-cut creative vision led the way for Studio Organon, who meticulously brought her vision to life. As Saurabh Dakshini, the founder of the studio explains, “Rather than being driven by trends, we approached the space as one would approach art. The design was heavily influenced by thoughtful conversations with Payal Khandwala and Vikram Ramchandani.” It would not be amiss to state that the store’s sprawling 4,000 sq ft space is anything less than an altar for the label’s varicoloured creations.

The timber clothing racks house multihued ensembles designed by Payal Khandwala; Photograph courtesy Studio Organon — The timber clothing racks house multihued ensembles designed by Payal Khandwala; Photography by Pankaj Anand

Mannequins stand against the horizontal oak wood partitions, each one enshrouding vibrant ensembles designed by Payal Khandwala; Photography by Pankaj Anand

Konnichiwa, India

Built from scratch, the store’s immersive interiors are situated within a warehouse-like structure enshrouded in a monochromatic black palette. At its heart lie two opposing design sensibilities — the striking maximalism and colours that define India and the austere simplicity espoused by Japanese minimalism. “My fascination with the concept of opposites is a true trait of my Gemini nature and drives my design approach. I was keen to blend these distinct sensibilities in the store, reflecting the dichotomy that consistently captivates me,” Payal gushes.

A task easier said than done, how does one go about ensuring both styles can co-exist in harmony? You make ample space for both. As a result, the store revels in duality, in contrasting elements that push and pull against each other with abandon.

On a quest for sartorial treasures

The facade sets the stage for a compelling face-off. Angular, mammoth windows punctuate the exteriors, clad with white bricks and a sepia-tinged sign bearing the designer’s name. This welcome warmth pivots a dramatic 180 inside, cloaked in all-black. A large, golden lightbox crowns the cash register to the left, an opulent addition that reigns unabashed against the stark space. The dim lighting and diffused daylight trickling through windows at the back further intensify the drama.

Unlike traditional retail space layouts, the store does not place the label’s creations in plain sight. A singular headless mannequin stands guard in front of a series of horizontally placed oak partitions in the centre, each layer revealing lines and racks of Payal’s electric creations. This spirit of discovery is central to the space’s narrative. A riveting experience ensues, casting the space’s zen-like interiors with an otherworldly feel. A clear hierarchy is set. The clothes are the crown jewels, the visitors foraging for treasure.

The brand archives section is ensconced in chic black, resulting in a contemporary space; Photography by Pankaj Anand

Opposites attract

The store’s striking mise-en-scene crowns Payal’s creations as the unquestionable protagonist. In the background, the sleek interiors play a foil to rough-hewn textures. As Saurabh explains, “The striking contrast between raw and refined materials adds both texture and depth to the environment.” As a result, the grey flooring, swirling wood and cobblestone facade lend warmth and character to the interiors.

The facade is simple and minimalistic, featuring black elements that allude to the interiors; Photography by Pankaj Anand

Eschewing the swarm of beiges that have riddled retail stores as of late, a wise choice of colours is central to the fashion designer’s narrative — Payal Khandwala’s flagship store delivers a curious experience that is, as it should be, centred around the clothes.