An appetite for art

NMACC Arts Cafe rewrites the rules of art, flavour and conversation

BY

This art-themed cafe is the perfect first date spot, because even if the conversation falls flat, its walls won’t. Between NMACC Arts Cafe’s vibrant canvases and creative corners, there’s always something to spark curiosity (and maybe rescue you from that long story about their fantasy football league). As a millennial who is chasing deadlines on weekdays and shut eye over the weekend, over a leisurely meal of three hours, I realised how much my city of Mumbai needs a place like the NMACC Arts Cafe, amidst its industrial complexes (I’m looking at you Bandra Kurla Complex) to rescue us from the throngs of work and take us to a place that is not beige, pastels and predictable. 

Photograph courtesy NMACC

Now, I did not anticipate spending three hours at the cafe. It was a work night and the promise of sleep lingered on my mind. But Damien Hirst’s painting from the 2021 Cherry Blossoms series had me captivated as did the lovely folded paper ceiling lights that crowned the bar. Then there’s this other nook with books, some foliage and a whole lot of cheer that seems to be seeping in through the walls. As me and my companion (read: date) surveyed the place for a place to sit, we zeroed in on the rooftop balcony (like true Mumbai residents) and settled with our popcorn negronis. The negroni was familiar but with a satisfying salty undertone offered by the popcorn.

First up was Arts Cafe Naan: Baba Ghanoush, Hummus Avocado and Labneh — comforting, familiar and polished off as quickly as it arrived. I never could have imagined enjoying carrots and parsnips, but with the addition of dates, walnuts, curry leaves with chili dressing and whipped tofu changed my mind about root vegetables. I convinced my carnivore counterpart to give it a shot who unwillingly obliged, but thanked me soon enough. It was plated much like a work of art, tasted even better than it looked and the unexpected flavours and ingredients made great fodder for conversations. 

Before we could look up from our empty plates, entered a Capresse Pizza alongside another with pepperoni and red peppers. The pepperoni made the carnivore happy, while I wondered if the Capresse could hold its own. But nothing can beat the basics when done right — fresh mozzarella, juicy tomatoes and aromatic basil — a match made in heaven. But the pepperoni too, with the heat of chillis cutting through the rich fatty meat, had found just the right balance of spice and savoury, with its soft pillowy yet hearty bread encasing the hearty goodness. 

Photograph courtesy NMACC
Photograph courtesy NMACC

Happy and full (in our tummies and heart) we were ready to call it a night but the conversations didn’t seem to end. We spoke about the food, the art around us and the joy of sitting at a rooftop terrace in the middle of Bandra Kurla Complex. We were informed that the next course was on its way. Shocked, we told them that we couldn’t stomach another morsel. We were advised  that we could take a little walk. Maybe another cocktail. We skipped the cocktail but took that little tour around the cafe to see some more art. We met works by Dia Mehhta Bhupal, Sameer Kulavoor, Jennifer Guidi, Takashi Murakami, Rana Begum and NorBlack NorWhite. And we discovered the beautiful 12-seater private dining room with a live kitchen. If perfection was a place, this would be it: ideal for dates, a large group and cosy little corners to read a book if you’re seeking solitude. 

For our last course, along came the Roast Atlantic Salmon with soy, wasabi glaze, furikake and rice (for yours truly) and Clay Oven Roast Chicken for the plus one. I enjoyed my fish a tad too much to try the chicken. But I was told that the chicken was “poetry on a plate” and he could have it for days on repeat. When it was time for dessert, we protested again and tried declining as we were busting at the seams. But we gave in (again) and our empty plates was replaced by a platter of four plated desserts: Tub Tim Grob: with jellied chestnut, coconut milk and pandan essence, Baba Au Rhum: lemon diplomat with berries, Kafir Lime Creme Brûlée and Basque Cheese Cake. Not too sweet, light and fluffy balanced by tart and texture. And just like that, the plate was polished away in no time.

 

Photograph courtesy NMACC
Photograph courtesy NMACC

At this point, I’m embarrassed to admit that we had to be ‘asked’ to leave. Politely and with a smile, the staff interrupted our conversation. We were talking about how beautiful the dessert looked, which ones we would order again and the ingenuity of offering four bite sized desserts instead of a single mammoth piece. Yes, sharing dessert and sweet nothing after a great meal is a great end to a date. But the joy of splitting a perfectly petite piece into two took away the awkwardness of digging in repeatedly. The element of surprise kept coming back to us as we tried each one of them, delving into deep discussions about each piece and the composition of flavours. We decided to continue our dessert dissection discussion on our way back as the NMACC Arts Cafe patiently waited for us to leave (all with a smile). 

As we drove back into the neon-lit bustle on Mumbai’s streets, the city’s familiar hum felt almost jarring after our three-hour rendezvous over art and gastronomy and effortless connection. As we navigated through traffic at 11 PM on a weekday, I realised that in a city obsessed with multi-tasking, the greatest luxury is a space (and place) that lets you savour not just the food, but also the act of being present.

Our tip: Skip lunch, we promise it will be worth it!

P.S: NMACC Arts Cafe has live entertainment on the weekends and Sunday brunches!

Photograph courtesy NMACC
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