Single origin is great for chocolate, but when it comes to the Epicurean entrée of a restaurant in Mumbai, a little mish-mash is just what it takes to set it apart. Even so, amidst the slew of creative restaurants in the city’s upscale arts and financial district of Bandra Kurla Complex, an emerging venture needs a certain chutzpah. La Pantheradesigned by Rohit Bhoite has it all.
Created by Chef Manuel Olveira and Mickee Tuljapurkar, the couple who also gave us the award-winning restaurant La Loca Maria, this 100-seater space defies labels. Spanish, French, Italian, Greek — it’s a culinary adventure through Europe worth writing home about. Akin to a postcard of memories, the food and the ambiance together evoke a sense of longing.
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An ornate bar area filled with vintage gilded decor; Photography by Talib ChitalwalaFeel like Gatsby in the plush bar chairs and the marble bar; Photography by Talib ChitalwalaRevel in the mustard tones and the dark wooden interiors; Photography by Talib ChitalwalaThe colossal scale of La Panthera adds a sense of opulence to the space; Photography by Talib Chitalwala
Chef Manuel grew up in the Spanish UNESCO heritage city of Toledo and it was only natural that his and Mickee’s first restaurant in Mumbai, La Loca Maria with modern Spanish cuisine and design, was inspired by his mother who ignited his passion for cooking as a young boy. This second restaurant is more regionally ambiguous, yet unequivocally sprightly. La Panthera, is a lighter spin on European living conjured by Rohit Bhoite of Rohit Bhoite House of Design.
Inside, what the designers call a cosy living room of a European manor, they offer a contrast in form and scale to the towering shiny glass blocks outside. The interiors are surprisingly intimate, especially as the bold colours and textures are reminiscent of a warm palatial palette.
The Lobster Risotto with poached lobster and basil oil is mouth-watering and a visual delight; Photographs courtesy of La PantheraRaison D’ Etre, an aromatic bitter yet sweet drink, is a testament to the artistry of balancing; Photographs courtesy of La Panthera
Rohit juxtaposes antique artefacts with modern materials and fuses classical order with whimsical elements. This playful spirit of experimentation is a common thread shared by the dishes including exceptional hot and cold tapas, wood-fired 48-hour fermented Naples-style pizza, an array of delicious pasta dishes such as the Linguine A La Vongle and for mains there are exquisite dishes such as the New Zealand Lambs Chops & Morels Risotto.
“Our menu embraces timeless European classics while playfully dancing with contemporary culinary techniques. Our ethos has always been simple, refined cooking where we let the ingredients shine. Elegant plating is the signature touch and exceptional taste reigns supreme” says Manuel.
At the entrance, a flamboyant pantera greets you; Photography by Talib ChitalwalaMarble interiors of the washroom match the luxurious atmosphere of the restaurant; Photography by Talib Chitalwala
With delicate brass chandeliers shaped like fronds suspended from a coffered ceiling and warm green and yellow furnishings, the space appears to be the perfect fit for not one but two aesthetes — The Great Gatsby and Marie Antoinette, directed by Sofia Coppola of course. The vintage artistic nuances of graceful arches held up by Corinthian columns, textured walls and velvet curtains provide a perfect mise en scene to the 15 ft artwork titled The Beast Within by ZaWorks.
At the shimmering bar sporting marble, brass and an undeniable je ne sais quoi, each drink captures a distinct appeal from the Raison D’Être with mezcal, sherry reduction and aromatic bitters to The Wildlings containing watermelon-infused gin, jalapeno-infused bitter bianco and extra-dry vermouth. Despite the weather turning to fall, the easy elan of La Panthera gives you a second chance to live your European Summer dreams, with a helping of the Mumbai panache.
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