Photography by Vinayak Grover

Comorin, but make it Mumbai

High-flavour comfort and a suave bar programme lands at Comorin in Mumbai

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Comorin reads Mumbai with clear eyes. It knows the city loves high-flavour plates, a fast cocktail culture and rooms that move from business to pleasure without changing tone. It keeps technique in the background and generosity on the table. It is a place to take a client at lunch and a group of friends after hours. It is also a place to sit alone at the bar and learn that a clarified espresso martini can be both crisp and decadent. Comorin belongs to EHV International from Old World Hospitality, led by founder chairman Rohit Khattar.

The first Comorin opened in Delhi NCR in Gurugram and built a loyal following for its inventive bar and comfort-first food. Chef Dhiraj Dargan, Brand Chef, Comorin, leads the kitchen. Mumbai carries that confidence forward while reading its own neighbourhood with care. Set at Nilaya Anthology in Lower Parel, the room curves inside a clean, rectangular shell and feels in motion from the first step. A long bar holds the front. Communal tables draw a quiet line through the floor. Two-tops along the glass edge catch the city in profile. A private dining room tucks in for gatherings. Step out and the Orangery opens as a pocket of green that shifts the pace without leaving the building.

Photography by Vinayak Grover

The mood is casual and precise. Wood, tile and soft booths give the room warmth. Lighting turns from bright and clear at noon to a flattering glow at night. It reads like a place built for people who return. You can sense the team’s confidence without any noise about it. The menu is a tour of cravings. Small plates set the tone, large plates anchor the table, extra large plates invite sharing. Think lemon gunpowder idli, kalari bun, bheja fry with khasta roti, bhetki in banana leaf and a Mumbai take on pav bhaji with caramelised onion mini laadi pav. There is texture play in green chilli prawns with popped black rice and comfort in a sweet corn khichdi that nods to bhutte ka kees.

Photography by Vinayak Grover

Make space for dessert. The cheeni malai toast is the one to order even if you think you are done. It is crisp at the edges, soft at the centre and wickedly nostalgic. It lands like a memory and a discovery at once. The bar thinks like a lab and drinks like a local. House cordials, bitters and clarifications keep the list light on its feet. A walnut sour brings depth without weight. A thyme and lemongrass G and T is bright and steady. The clarified espresso martini tastes clean and still feels indulgent. Zero alcohol options are not an afterthought. Cold brew with vanilla and chicory, clever shrubs, basil and khus sodas, all with proper balance.

Comorin understands Mumbai’s appetite for flavour and pace. It keeps the food grounded, lets technique disappear and offers a bar that is both curious and clear. Come for a quick plate and a drink. Stay for the malai toast.

Read more: 11 restaurants where ideas of texture, colour and detail cook up a storm

Photography by Vinayak Grover
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