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    Amidst the magnificent Himalayas, the Six Senses at Bhutan is soup for the weary urban dweller’s soul

    MAR 15, 2024 | By Vaidehi Tikekar
    Arrival lobby at Six Senses Paro; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan
    Restaurant and dining deck at The Flying Farmhouse. The structure features an ancient cantilever bridge technique; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan
    Floating yoga room at Thimphu Palace in the Sky that extends onto an infinity pool with a view of the Himalayas, surrounded by blue pine forests and apple orchards; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan
    Suite at Paro; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan
    Hot stone bath at Thimphu; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan
    Heated pool at Thimphu; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan
    Constructed using granite stone ruins, Six Senses, Paro that borrows from 15th Century Chubjekha Dzong is flanked by the mighty mountains alongside blue pine forests; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan
    Spa at Punakha is designed to emulate a village doubling as a social and spiritual space. The flying roof atop rammed-earth style walls is a characteristic feature of traditional architecture in Bhutan; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan

    For someone who unfailingly sleeps through every car ride, the glorious views of Bhutan kept me awake throughout the long journeys in between the valleys of the Kingdom. It has been a while since I’ve been back home and now the memories keep up all night. As I write this, my mind goes to the panoramic mountain views, travelling across the Six Senses from Thimphu (Palace in the Sky), to Punakha (The Flying Farmhouse) and the fortress at Paro (Stone Ruins).

    Arrival lobby at Six Senses Paro; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan

     

    Sunsets and martinis at Punakha, with a view of the Dzong; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan

    I reminisce the pine-needle and tamarind tea, steaming momos, noodles in light broth, chicken stew with subtly spiced, organic produce. The Ema Datshi, buckwheat pancakes, chilli chutneys and fresh fruits were a wholesome indulgence after days filled with monastery visits and numerous hikes. The lodges at Six Sense evoke a sense of home, where one can unwind on the porch, savouring sunrises with ginger-honey tea and a yak wool blanket.

    Constructed using granite stone ruins, Six Senses, Paro that borrows from 15th Century Chubjekha Dzong is flanked by the mighty mountains alongside blue pine forests; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan

    Slow walks in the properties reveal picturesque scenes of pine forests, apple orchards, rice paddies, clear skies and ancestral settlements. Despite apparent similarities, I discover disparate details — from high windows to hand-painted Lha-Zo (Buddha paintings), the expansive lodges feature flying roofs with wooden and stone structures.

    Amongst the grand transition spaces at Thimphu, the infinity pond and a view of the Great Buddha Dordenma statue, the focal point at The Palace in the Sky is the floating yoga room, embodying the property’s grandeur.

    Restaurant and dining deck at The Flying Farmhouse. The structure features an ancient cantilever bridge technique; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan

     

    Lunch at a farmer’s home consisting of ara (a local fermented beverage), rice, chicken broth, salad and snacks; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan

    Meanwhile, the Paro lodge, a tribute to fortress, boasts granite stone brick construction, offering breathtaking sunset views from the dining deck amidst dense trees and refreshing mountain breezes.

    The Punakha residence features a floating living room, reminiscent of traditional Bhutanese farmhouses, where a candlelit dinner unfolded on the glass-floored ceiling above the infinity pool, creating a truly enchanting experience. Following a relaxing massage and a traditional hot stone bath, I emerged into the night, marvelling at the star-studded sky — a rare sight in bustling metro cities.

    Heated pool at Thimphu; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan

     

    Hot stone bath at Thimphu; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan

    It was a delight to be a part of the small celebration for Bhutan’s 116th National Day at the Thimphu lodge, dancing to the beats of Bhutanese traditional songs and drinking butter tea with coconut rice. The place, an exemplar of a simple yet enriching life was quite the revelation of finding peace and happiness. After long days in the valleys with a temperature less than 5 degrees, my dimly lit room welcomed me with a crackling bukhara (fireplace) and a bed warm with a hot water bag.

    Living room at Thimphu, Palace in the Sky suite overlooking the Great Buddha Dordenma statue. The walls are painted with illustrations of clouds to emulate its name; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan

     

    Suite at Paro; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan

    Along with its aesthetic brilliance, what set Six Senses apart was its commitment to sustainable living. The timeless architecture with locally sourced building materials, minimal waste practices and tooth-cleansing capsules instead of toothpaste underscored this ethos. A traditional mask made of pine wood husk, representing powerful animals, greeted me at each property, accompanied by heartfelt notes on sustainability.

    Chorten Nyingpo Monastery in Punakha; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan

    These curated moments enhanced my inaugural solo journey, featuring royal strolls, visits to monasteries, a picnic lunch, breakfasts with monks, a warm meal with a local farmer’s family with lessons on crafting prayer flags in the traditional technique, a blessing ceremony and a hands-on experience of making momos.

    The grand entrance emulating a fortress at Six Senses Paro with a view of the paddy fields; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan

     

    Dining deck at Paro that frames exquisite views of the sunsets as the bonfire illuminates natural textures of the stone; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan

    For someone accustomed to the ceaseless rhythm of Mumbai where spending a moment in quietude is more expensive than the Cordyceps in Bhutan, the getaway offered a welcome respite – an experience I never knew I needed. The digital detox was a revelation and moments like sipping a pomegranate martini by the Punakha river, witnessing the sunset glow on the Dzong, became timeless memories.

    Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, as seen from a distance; Photograph courtesy Six Senses Bhutan

    While the echoes of construction machines remind me of the city’s chaos, the memories of Bhutan linger, inviting reflection and a yearning for the kingdom’s simplicity. As I sit, reminiscing, the desire to return to that serene world beckons.

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