The walls speak at Fort Barli, a 350-year-old heritage hotel in Rajasthan by Sawai Hospitality

Fort Barli resembles a centuries-old photograph brought to life. Jharokhas that don’t discriminate between stunning sunsets or sunrises. Courtyards shrouded by intricate jalis. And to top it all off, eight meticulously preserved chambers fit for royalty. A three-year-long restoration process later, the 350-year-old heritage hotel in Rajasthan today is a culmination of the residing royal family’s lifelong dream. 

Built in 1675, the fort is now helmed by the twin brothers Devraj Singh and Divyraj Singh, the 16th-generation heirs of the Rathore dynasty. Today, it welcomes weary travellers with open arms and an armful of anecdotes from its remarkable history. The fort is a part of a larger group of heritage and boutique properties managed by Sawai Hospitality. A family-led endeavour that began with the Late Rani Sahiba Sushila Kumari’s efforts to restore Fort Barli, her vision was brought to life by her daughter Princess Vinay Kumari and grand son-in-law Anirudh Singh Rathore.

Rebuilding a legacy 

Rome wasn’t built in a day, and neither was Fort Barli. Restoring a palace built through painstaking manual labour in an era far removed from technology, predictably, comes with its own challenges. Tackling 9 -10 feet thick walls, patiently uncovering never-seen-before handpainted frescos — the process was all the more delicate owing to the family’s insistence on sticking as close as possible to the original design.

Keeping with the times, limited liberties have been taken to introduce modern amenities for the comfort of residing guests.

Visitors today enter through the same weathered path the residing family’s ancestors and royal elephants once trod through, guarded by ancient stone boulders. The exteriors have been deliberately kept unpainted. Its weathered stone is a silent storyteller of the palace’s past.

Following old footsteps 

The fort dons many hats dictated equally by Rajput tradition as much as function. The towering bastions, once utilised by soldiers to keep a watchful eye out for enemies, offer panoramic views for visitors today. One of them has been innovatively turned into an infinity pool, offering visitors a way to beat the infamous Rajasthani heat outside the well-ventilated interiors.

Not a pebble has been added to the original stone walkways that lead up to the Ganesh Dyodhi (fort’s entrance). All the wooden carved doors are shorter in height than regular ones, a measure taken to further reinforce security. These impressive structures stand sturdy sans any screws owing to an ancient technique called Kuti Sakal. Craftsmen used precise wooden grooving and metal hooks to secure them in place across the palace.

The Rani Mahal, once the queen’s private chambers, is decorated with 250-year-old frescos across its walls. Come night, the courtyards and the interiors are illuminated solely by diyas and the starry sky overhead. Here, visitors can choose to break bread atop silver thalis filled with ancestral recipes prepared by the royal khansamas (chefs). 

Amongst these architectural marvels, visitors are welcomed and encouraged to interact with the residing royal family. As Divyraj Singh stresses, “The fort remains our family’s home, and we personally host you as we would welcome our family or close friends.” 

Generations of artistry 

The walls have been shaped from local sandstone, limestone and lime mortar. Known colloquially as chuna, lime mortar is one of the oldest known construction materials. A select few today are proficient at handling it. Skilled artisans, with knowledge passed down from their forefathers who had once shaped the fort’s walls, were instrumental in the restoration process. 

250-year-old frescos depicting deities and florals in vibrant blues and reds have been painted with natural, flower-based colours. Intricate stone carvings further add to the fort’s craftsmanship. Some careful ship-shaping helped restore these elements to their former glory.

Beyond the walls, the interiors flaunt silver heirloom furniture, a common find in royal households of the past. Each piece is intricately carved with depictions of elephants, lions and tigers — all animals that symbolise courage, a trait Rajput households are revered for. 

As indulgent as the heritage property may be, Fort Barli ensures visitors are made aware of its rich history at every step. The voices that once echoed in these halls, the hands that shaped these walls are celebrated and remembered in every breath of the ones lucky enough to enjoy the fruit of their labour today.

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