Japan of one’s imagination

Flavours known and unknown of the East Asian country in a Mumbai restaurant

BY

Japan, like many Asian countries, has always been slightly predictable. Don’t get me wrong. I barely agree with this statement myself; although the likes of Indianised sushi and matcha, globally located Muji and Uniqlo, the internet visuals of cherry blossoms, manga, ramens and more have made Japan somewhat formulaic. But at Gaijin in Mumbai, I found a new kind of Japan existing in the thrumming folds of Bandra — where my palate and sight were honestly taken by surprise. As chef-partner Anand Morwani says, “The idea for Gaijin came from the feeling of being an outsider who’s deeply curious. I didn’t want to replicate what I saw during my travels to Japan, instead I wanted to reinterpret it.” Co-founded by Karan Gaba and Rohan Mangalorkar, the space is fesigned by Keith Menon of Spiro Spero. The interiors follow no rules, too. Instead, they flow corner to corner with an electric first impression of a restaurant and bar that is familiar yet foreign. 

Unlacing the Japanese colour theory first — the threshold before entering inside first catches the eye with the facade’s delicious burgundy-red colour, traditionally called enji-iro, often said to be inspired by Japanese makeup pigments. Reach for the entryway inside and the locally common Shoji doorway appears in front with an evolved twist to it, where the traditional latticework is renewed with mulberry wood veneer, heightening the sense of textural play from the onset.

Inside Gaijin in Mumbai designed by Spiro Spero

Far away from the expected interiors defined by wood, bamboo, clean lines (and the sunken low tables) a performative blue drapes the walls around. Ironically so, this colour dubbed Aizome is in fact distinctively Japanese, a hue derived from their techniques of indigo dyeing. Hereon, Japan is renewed in my pages of design vocabulary as I dust away the remnants of my past imaginations.

Keith also informs me, “At the heart of Gaijin is a seven-tonne stone installation as an ode to Suiseki, the art of appreciating naturally occurring stones.” Close to the table I perch on, the quiet cascade of water and strings of moss on this monolithic block swish me into a few minutes of zen and fascination — which breaks with my sound of exclamation as I see a neon-lit radio station by the bar, stocked with a collection of vinyls inspired by the underground music bars of Tokyo and Osaka.   

Alleyway inside Gaijin
The bar area

With layered yet wildly creative cocktails at the centre, the bar calls you to witness moments of play and transition — the robata and yakitori section on one corner silently watching the diners dig in, with the cold section placed on the other.

Keep an eye out for the materials and you’ll notice the bar’s wooden facade dissolve into the geometric wooden inlays on the floor. And then strikes the magic of contrasts, where Gaijin’s indoors lead you outdoors into a cinematic backstreet-like alleyway. As Keith recounts, “The alleyway is designed with graffiti, illustrations, posters, stickers and Nihonga art inspired by the urban streets of Japan.”

Intimate yet all-encompassing, familiar yet moody, Gaijin is a restaurant and bar, but also a vivid flavour of all things urban, cultural and reminiscent, born out of the first impressions that hit a traveller or as they say, an outsider.  

And when the sight is satiated, move on to…

Food and drinks.
As simple as this sounds, the menu at Gaijin is equally (or more) adventurous. What wins the palate are some familiar, some unexpected and neatly utilised ingredients that first rehearse backstage in the kitchen — tossing, tumbling and folding flavours — before performing on the diners’ table. 

I see a shiny, icy block floating from the bar to someone’s table, which I’m later told is in fact a frozen cocktail inside a block of ice called Mt. Fuji. Bar manager Nischal Suman draws attention to a culinary-driven cocktail as well, called Oink Oni. Savoury, deep, umami and well, utterly edgy, he explains, “the cocktail uses bacon-washed vodka, caramelised onion rum, Japanese tare sauce among other elements, served with a side of deep-fried pork skin.” On my second visit to Gaijin though, this cocktail recipe had already gone under some revisions.  

A menu of surprises

Don’t we all always have an eye out for dishes off the menu? Unknown, hidden away…“As for off-menu dishes, we do have a couple. Let’s just say if you’re a regular and you ask nicely, we’ve got surprises,” chef Anand quips.

Some standouts on our plates were the crab udon, brussel sprouts yakimeshi rice, lamb ribs and bone marrow with cashew miso black garlic glaze.

One side of the bar often witnessed the chefs in culinary action assembling one plate after the other. When I ask the chef if there’s a dish that challenges him creatively, he explains, “The Tuna Akami vs Chutoro Temaki is deceptively complex. Two cuts of tuna—akami and chutoro—with avocado and a wasabi foam, all served in a crisp nori taco shell. It’s all about texture and balance. One step wrong and the whole thing falls flat!”

What stuck with me towards the end of the Gaijin experience was a simple thought, which chef Anand described as: “I spent about a month moving through Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and smaller towns. What really stuck with me was the focus on fermentation, binchotan grilling, and a deep respect for balance. Nothing ever shouts on the plate, yet everything is expressive.”

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