On the table: A Spanish dinner in Mumbai

Intimate, grand and memories of Europe. This is your cue to head to Milagro!

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A restaurant visit that takes you across continents just by the virtue of its evidently European menu and auroral interiors, says a lot about how soon I’m already planning my next visit (I haven’t even left the venue yet!). A hearty touch of Spain’s flavourful delicacy and a bit of European rococo and New York’s jazz era on its walls — Mumbai’s new restaurant Milagro is a curious hideout for the fine-diners, garnished with ethereal crystal chandeliers, objects of decor, historic Spanish paintings by Joaquín Sorolla, known for his impressionist art, and even the city skyline visible at a distance if you choose the right time of arrival. 

One evening, right before the rains took over the city’s temperament, the editorial team of ELLE DECOR India sat down at Milagro for dinner; which I’d call a culinary spectacle for the eyes and the palate. Think fresh oysters on a bed of ice, traditional black ink paella (rice) with grilled squid, cured ham served the Catalonian way, confit duck with Parmesan mashed potatoes, pumpkin risotto among other recipes. 

But what does Milagro mean? 

It’s a Spanish word that translates to a miracle. First launched in Goa, the Mumbai outpost imagined by founder Francesca Smith also folds within it a cocktail bar that can easily pass off as a set for cinematic moments from Casino Royale or The Great Gatsby. A dark, moody-lit passage stamped with handcrafted gargoyles follows its way to the 26 ft marble bar contrasted with gold-leafed arches that scale the entire ceiling, connected on one end, to the library of spirits behind the bar. Hypnotic? Yes. The space animates itself further with custom-made leather-y chesterfield sofas, mirrors that cast infinity reflections and red high-stools fashioned into a disciplined line at the bar. 

The restaurant’s flow is such that the cocktail bar and the dining room never meet each other, existing on two opposite ends connected by a reception lobby in between. The dining area personates the looks of a living room plucked from the centuries-old rococo era. It’s a visual rehearsal before the table is set with a grand assembly of food and cocktails. We’re told, in the daylight, the dining section becomes a Parisian sunroom! As the sun sets, it transforms into a slow, romantic room lit with candles and chandeliers. “I’ve always been enchanted by old-world charm. At Milagro, the design is a celebration of European history, blending classic luxury with warmth and intimacy so that every guest feels enveloped in a world of beauty and comfort,” says Francesca. 

On the table

First things first. The New York Sour on the drinks menu pulled my attention before I leaped over to the food menu. Gradient hues of dry red wine floating on the clear whiskey mix is a classic one can’t go with. Some beetroot tartare (an elevated family recipe), fried green peppers sprinkled with sea salt, cured ham with grated tomato, roasted garlic and crystal bread topped with olive oil are great pairing options. The kitchen led by Chef José Manuel Borrallo Sánchez from Seville, the table comes alive with a feast of flavours, textures and colours that map the foodscape of Europe, importantly Spain — my team weighs in their favourites from the menu too! Excerpts below…

“I loved the use of fresh ingredients because I had the seafood. And this was just after my visit to Mallorca, Spain, where I spent a week enjoying local produce on the island. And the meal (squid ink paella and fresh oysters) at Milagro took me right back,” recalls Shriti Das.

“I wish I’d had my Daiquiri near the bar, because the space was stunning! It made me wish I’d ordered a dirty martini and that I were a Bond girl in the movie universe,” says Chiransha Prasad. 

“It felt as if we were sitting in a palatial dining room from the Renaissance age (only better, as we could now sip on espresso martinis!)” comments Namrata Dewanjee.

“I had the Spaghetti Milagroso, graciously customised with prawns. It was easily the standout of the main course. The prawns were beautifully cooked, the portion generous, and the sauce light yet richly flavored,” mention Apeksha Rao.

“The mushroom risotto was just like a warm hug. Creamy, rich and savoury, it was everything one could look for,” says Krishna Jaisinghani. 

Where is Milagro Mumbai:
5th Floor, S.V, Swatantryaveer Savarkar Rd, opposite Century Bazaar, Prabhadevi, Mumbai-400025

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