Food

Raw Charm: Farzi Cafe’s molecular cuisine thrives in an all concrete interior

JUN 10, 2016 | By Aditi Sharma Maheshwari
It all started with an indulgent, edible invite. As we chomped on its contents, we were assured of one thing – like it or leave it, you can’t ignore it. With the recent avalanche of new food joints in the city, we were really hoping to be surprised by Farzi Cafe. Owned by Zorawar Kalra, who comes from an impressive lineage and a slew of restaurants like Papaya and MasalaBar to his credit, our expectations were skyrocketing.
First impression
Located in Kamala Mills, Farzi that means “creating an illusion” perfectly exemplifies the cuisine and the decor of the restaurant. Planned by Mumbai based Urban Studio, as we walked inside the space, a feeling of having entered a massive concrete box took over. Showcasing 3D spatial mapping on the walls, the place also showcases projection lighting on a large screen that reflects visuals of lush greenery through the day and psychedelic imagery at night to transform the place into a high energy one. This modern Indian tapas bar and bistro, within the first five minutes, had us hooked and booked.
The interiors
The entire restaurant is made of concrete – walls, flooring, candle stands and even the salt and pepper shakers. Tall beams and partitions showcasing Rajasthani jali work seamlessly blend with the modern day technology of 3D mapping. Within its 4,400 sq. ft. space, the design shows play of light and material, each used in a way to accentuate the raw beauty of the space. At the far end, a corner for a live band guarantees that people are encouraged to let their hair down and allow the day’s stress to melt away. The long bar, facing the entire seating has a character of its own – industrial vibe reflecting shifting imagery behind it, at this restaurant, sitting by the bar might even become a popular choice.
The food and service
Molecular gastronomy of modern Indian cuisine, made with bold flavours, develops a whimsical spread that aims to create magic. The menu is off beat, street and innovative as one would expect when crafted by Chef Saurabh Udinia, whereas the drinks menu is designed by mixologist Aman Dua, Head Mixoloigst, Massive Restaurants & Arjun Chaudhary, Assistant Restaurants Manager, Farzi Cafe Kamala Mills. Take for instance the drinks – Chuski Margarita made with tequila is infused with a hint of kaccha aam panna, served with an ice ball (to be had like a chuski, of course); Apple Foamintini created with the goodness of elder flower, featuring vodka that is topped with mint foam and fumes for presentation. While the spirits can down all skepticism, the food too, walks the talk. We were transported to an upgraded version of Chandni Chowk and Chowpatty. Daal Chawal Arancini made into delicious balls served with rolled up papad, achar and chutney; Tempura Fried Prawns, tossed with homemade sauce, lemon and chilli foam; Amritsari Fish n Chips dipped in desi ghee; Delhi’s favourite Gupta burger with a molecular twist… recounting these beauties has made us hungry again!
ED’s verdict
We have two words – experience unparalleled. Other than the theatrics of smoke filled cocktails, froth topped dishes and the larger-than-life screen mesmerising us with moving images, the place has a fun, upbeat vibe – so shake a leg, eat to your hearts content and prepare for a second visit already.
Address: 2 Kamala Mills, Lower Parel, Mumbai 13.
Tel: (0) 8433942802
Also read: Two molecular recipes to try at home